Argentina

Dusting off the layer of frost from the bike, we saddle up for the coldest ride of our lives, the sunlight struggling mightily to push aside the frigid hours of early morning. Ten minutes into the excursion the bikes ease to a stop, trading worried looks through 13 layers of fleece and nylon, our nose and forehead the only exposed skin. Ten more minutes, the hands assume a wooden consistency, the feet become a lost cause as I thank the years of skiing that has left few nerves

Everything about this country is high. The record books are filled with such adjectives of this landlocked Andean country. Highest capital, airport, golf course, ski run and just about anything a desperate tourism board can conjure up. With the bikes wheezing and our lungs doing little better we struggled into the valley of La Paz at over 11,000ft. A fitting place to switch out the new frame sent from Kawasaki. Though after a day of crawling through the worst traffic of our t

Following the breathtaking scenery on the canyon approach you would imagine we were prepared for sights of the Cordillera Blanca. We were not. Maybe it is the fact that outside of Ecuador, our eyes haven't felt snow in 5 months, or perhaps it is the bleak contrast of unblemished snow meeting the dusty desert below. Either way the mountains defy explanation, words are but a dusty mirror held up to the grandeur of such terrain. Though Mt. Rainier holds a similar vertical relief

Ever since the trip entered its final half, Bolivia reared its icy boundaries as the final challenge laid before us. A high altitude gauntlet of sorts, after which the civilized pavement of Chile and Argentina beckoned our wearied bodies. But first, the blinding white expanse of the Salar de Uyuni must be crossed. While it could definitely be completed unaided, the prospect of 3 days riding without luggage proved too strong and thus, we teamed up with a Land Cruiser tour grou

It was our first day in Peru, and one that neither of us expected or had hoped for. The scenery was lush green and vast on the outskirts of the Amazon rainforest and the temperature in the upper 70's. Having come into the country via dirt roads east of everything civilized it seemed, we skirted the edge of the jungle traveling along a simple dirt road that seemed to go on forever. The hilly corners were moderately tight, visibility limited, and traffic virtually nonexistent.

Though perhaps a bit painful no description of Peru would be complete without touching the shady areas of politics. In many ways this Incan nation has followed the predictable path of communist surges and far right backlashes. Pondering their history through the filter of American life it is difficult to comprehend the natives proclivity towards such political structures. That is, until their tumultuous background is brought forth into the light. Reaching back 500 years, just

Guayaquil, Equador With trepidation we parked our motorcycles outside the orphanage and waded through the sea of children accumulating around our bikes. Picturing cramped rooms full of lonely children our expectations drifted towards the somber. But all reluctance quickly melted away when each of the 24 girls introduced their name, age and favorite activity. Full of smiles and hope, nearly all excitedly listed dancing as their first choice. Which was quickly followed by reque

Once again our technique of sending out random emails to prospective missionaries pulled through in Ecuador. Throughout our travels we've tried to connect up with MAF, Missionary Aviation Fellowship, and in Ecuador we happened upon one of their largest operations. photo by SWLocated in the former oil town of Shell, MAF flies 4 planes into the thick green jungle of Eastern Ecuador. 50 percent of the flights serve as medical assistance, the other half is devoted to missionary t

Throughout many areas in Latin America economic development is the Achilles heal that relegates the countries to third world status. Surprisingly we've encountered relatively few organizations that are taking serious steps to alleviate this problem. Much of this relates to the formidable challenges presented by the foreign governments. The mind boggling bureaucracy plaguing such nations is described succinctly by a recent story from fellow travelers. Arriving at the Ecuadoria

Just another KLR 650 riding through the jungles of Panama...

... and volcanos.

After nearly four weeks in Guatemala we finally added another stamp to our passport. Though this was not attained with ease. Perhaps El Salvadoreans still harbor bitter resentment towards Americans for switching their currency to US dollars last year. Either way the effort and bureaucracy involved was profound. Crossing most borders with just a backpack is usually quite a simple affair, a few stamps and signatures and you're off. Throw a $5,000 motorcycle in the scenario and

One of the first things you realize traveling is that some well intentioned recommendations are simply ludicrous. Many of these revolve around food. Don't eat peeled fruit or cut vegetables, always drink with a straw and don't even think of partaking of the food from street vendors. If you succeed in this manner, congratulations, you've managed to travel without leaving home. People have actually suggested I bring a spray bottle of bleach to disinfect every meal. Probably the

Honduras is described as the poorest country in Central America, though what little they have is distributed more equally than the surrounding nations. Compared to Guatemala, where a large portion of the population still retain their pure Mayan blood, Honduras is also much more racially uniform. 90% of the people here fall under the broad category of Meztizos or mixed Spanish / Indian blood. In stark contrast to this majority, the Garifunas who trace their ancestry from Afric

Arriving in Xela, we settle in for a couple weeks of Spanish classes. The non-profit school provides one on one instruction for 5 hours per day. Living with a local Guatemalan family is also a large part of the education as mine didn't speak a drop of English. This definitely creates an inspiring atmosphere as you stumble through dinner using more charades than vocabulary. Before fully appreciating the new sedentary lifestyle we head off to the capital to replace our pathetic

Volunteer opportunities abound in Xela, a product of the large influx of language school students. Projects range from medical and nutrition to farming and reforestation. We visited Chico Mendez, an ambitious reforestation program that planted 10,000 trees last year. Created and operated by Armando, a native Guatemalan, the grassroots campaign is driven by a handful of dedicated volunteers and a shoestring budget. Fueled by a simple concern for the environment, their attitude

March 11, 2003 Finally arriving in the area we've been repeatedly warned about, I decide it is high time for our first flat tire. Yes, 100 miles in, my IRC tire (It's Really Crappy), pops open a one-inch gash. I thought it was a little odd when my foot brushed the pavement on the last turn. Dragging the pegs on a fully loaded KLR is not something usually encouraged. Dripping under the midday sun I pushed a little too hard trying to put the repaired tire back on. Gear, bolts a

Situated on one of the world's best surf beaches, Puerto attracts travelers from across the globe. Euro languages are heard more then English and most of the tourists seem to come for the waves. Not that this applied to me as I painfully recalled the coral reef and sea urchins that defeated me on my first attempt. Thus I spent my time sipping lucuados and reading the history of Cortez's invasion. As the Mexican sun torched my Washington skin I was once again reminded that I b