Though perhaps a bit painful no description of Peru would be complete without touching the shady areas of politics. In many ways this Incan nation has followed the predictable path of communist surges and far right backlashes. Pondering their history through the filter of American life it is difficult to comprehend the natives proclivity towards such political structures. That is, until their tumultuous background is brought forth into the light.
Reaching back 500 years, just before the Spanish conquistadors made their grand entrance, the Incan society was a tightly controlled society. The natives owned no personal property, worked communally on agricultural projects and utilized a decimal system for administration. Families, tribes, clans, etc. were organized into successively larger units from 10 to 10,000. This efficient system was sadly lost upon the Spanish invasion.
Lacking a written language system of knots was employed for accounting and runners were used to carry messages. Vast irrigation projects were also engineered to carry life giving water to the scorched coastal plains. The list goes on and merits further reading (The Conquest of the Incas, John Hemming). Drawing a heritage from such a background, the periodic flourishing of socialistic attitudes is more understandable.
The reasoning unfortunately goes far beyond cultural history. Numerous countries in Latin America, if not all, struggle with such polarized political landscapes, yet few claim a history as socialized as the Incas. No, the problems are far more recent. Ever since the fingers of Europe and later, the States, first laid hold of the turbid region a rather unique brand of capitalism has been sold. One that bares little resemblance to the system we enjoy farther north.
A place where the middle class is merely an idea. The overwhelming majority of land and business is controlled by a handful of pale skinned elite. Workers are paid a pittance while $100,000 Mercedes Benzes prowl the streets. And still those in power contemplate why capitalism is such a tough sell. Quite obviously it is not our economic system they flee, but the distorted phantom propped up in place. Otherwise you would not find them risking life and limb for a chance in the golden land of the United States.
Sadly our pride in the successes of our gov't have blinded us from the broad differences found throughout Latin America. For an honest and heart wrenching history of US involvement read "Inevitable Revolutions" by Walter Lafeber. Upon finishing this highly regarded book, my head is hung in shame, knowing a lifetime of service will not atone for the great disservice wrought upon this forsaken land. Read it. You will understand our position among the world with far more clarity.
Wherever you feelings land upon our current president, Latin America's opinion of him cannot be disputed. When all is said and done I am simply tired of it all. Tired of defending my country to arrogant Europeans and wandering hippies. Tired of daily riding by buildings covered with graffiti comparing my president to Hitler. Tired of every other Latino asking me how I feel about Iraq, and then voicing his opinion. It is an odd time to travel, knowing 95% of the population we encounter holds our current administration in utter detest.
In response to some peoples concern, let me emphasize that the previous paragraph is merely a snap shot of the feelings we've encountered from the locals along the way, not our personal beliefs. Simply raw observations, nothing more and nothing less.
--JM--