Thoughts of 5 lanes of traffic, roundabouts and everything else entailed in urban riding generally does not evoke a positive image. But with the correct vehicle and attitude it can entertain quite well. Though it should be noted that this thrill is confined to foreign travels where traffic laws are less strict.
With 6 million inhabitants, Guadalajara provided an ideal training ground for our first true urban adventure. It began after meeting a friendly local motorcyclist who offered to take us out to the finest tacos in town. Pulling out of the gas station it quickly became apparent our new friend wasn't about to just loaf through traffic. It was a sink or swim approach, because if we wanted a meal and some conversation we had to stick with him. Hungry for both we sped off into a cool Guadalajaran night.
For better or worse the normal laws that guide stateside traffic are respectfully set aside. Stop signs, red lights, speed limits and lanes for that matter are mere suggestions rather than mandates. Reassuringly I tell myself 'this guy seems pretty intelligent and he's managed to survive this kind of riding for years.' Comforting.
Cutting through traffic I realize a distinct similarity to the old video game Frogger. Punch the accelerator to squeeze ahead, than grab the breaks to miss the taxi. It is a sport of constant cerebral activity. Measuring, calculating and prediction, your brain flushes every out except for the 4 or 5 seconds surrounding you. Nighttime somehow simplifies this because everything is reduced to just head lights or tail lights. Odd for Mexico, but in Guadalajara both are usually working.
Perhaps the most liberating aspect of Mexican driving is lane splitting. While yes, it is legal in California, the Latin version ratchets it up a few notches. Effectively you never have to wait in traffic, just zoom to the front of the line. The practical side of this applies to air cooled engines which overheat without the cooling effect of wind. The human body also seems to appreciate the physics of convection.
Unfortunately, our luggage cases bulged out the sides of our bikes waiting to pop off the next unsuspecting mirror. After a few close calls, Alberto inquires why we failed to leave our cases in the room for the day. With no legitimate answer to give, I mumble something and smile. Hmmm, at least Alberto will be able to translate into Spanish 'hey, uh sorry about your mirror.'
Following someone was definitely the best way to see the city. After confessing that we really hadn't seen much of the city, Alberto graciously led us on a grand tour. No stopping to check the map or asking locals, just follow the taillight and look where he points. Guadalajara is a vibrant city, rich in history and doted with cathedrals older than the States. Using red lights and pullouts for breaks, Alberto would give us a quick history of each site. If only we could tour every city this way.
Nearing the end of our escapade we swing by Alberto's good friend Alfonso. A party / wedding was in progress and less than 20 ft away sat the right hand man of the former president. Needless to say this was a very different slice of Mexico. Over refreshing drinks, a plan was hashed to tour the biggest Tequila producer in Mexico. Considering this private tour is reserved for family and friends we couldn't pass up the opportunity.
Our main goal in visiting Guadalajara was to check out the Harvest Language School run by Jeff and Lisa King. Many people had referred the school to us and the praise seemed very well placed. The courses are taught in 7 week blocks with a total of 4 levels. Students also have the option of living with a local family for a full immersion style. Harvest is popular among missionaries from America, Asia and Europe as they adjust to life in Latin America. Guadalajara is a great place to study as the mt. biking, climbing and city life provide enough reminders of home while still giving a fully Mexican experience. More info can be found at http://www.harvestlanguagecenter.org/ --J.M