Oaxaca to San Cristobal, Mexico

One would imagine piloting a motorcycle at 70 mph would have a pleasantly cooling effect. While this holds true at more reasonable temperatures, when the mercury marches upward a distinctly opposite reaction occurs. Much of Mexico could be classifieds in this department and I hold no affinity for it.

Wind, by itself is simply an instrument of change. If the temperature of the moving air is colder than your skin, the wind merely increases the rate of which the heat is pulled from your skin. Thus, wind chill. Conversely, the thermometer on your backpack is not intimidated by the frigid breeze because the device doesn't produce any heat.

Unfortunately this principal we call convection has an evil twin lurking at the other end of the scale. When the wind whistling by is warmer than your skin, the air is just that much more effective at raising your temperature. After a day of skiing, that is why you put your hands over vents in your car. Though this is slightly mitigated by evaporative cooling, i.e. sweat, which is more efficient with wind.

All this combines to produce a sensation akin to surrounding yourself with a dozen hairdryers on full blast. Even the luxury of sweating is nullified as any hint of moisture is torn away before the cooling is felt. Though dunking my t-shirt in a river offered a significant improvement. Steve utilized a different approach, riding his KLR back and forth across a stream until pleasantly soaked. But the a/c didn't last long, within 20 minutes the cotton was bone dry.

Finally, approaching San Cristobal the first sentinels of cold weather are felt. Soon the crisp mountain air envelops us and billows through our mesh jackets. Several hot weeks have past since I felt a chill and I relish the sensation. Sure, it may sound a bit melodramatic but such is the ranting of a north westerner in the tropics. With spirits lifted our route crosses the mountains and drops into San Cristobal.

One of the nicest towns in Mexico, San Cristobal sits in a valley hemmed in by rugged green hills. A mixture of pine and Banana trees provide a peculiar but beautiful combination. Right now I'll take anything with a hint of green. Fortunately the low population of the Chiapas region has kept the topography relatively lush. Feeling a bit guilty I admit this is my favorite part of Mexico. Not the long elegant beaches or stark desert landscape, just these simple crumpled hills of jade.

The Chiapas region is also well known for the sometimes violent relationship between the government and the indigenous people. Unfortunate, because this is some of the most enchanting terrain Mexico has to offer. Though injecting money into the local economy, tourism is also not received favorably. Even eco-tourism is unappreciated as attested to by the recent attack of a group of foreign kayakers.

With this knowledge stirring in our thoughts we cautiously rode towards Pelenque. Every truck a potential kidnapper and in each shadow lurked a native with poison tipped darts. With hours of silence on the bike the mind tends to get creative. Fortunately the profound scenery distracted us and I understood why they defend it so ardently.